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2010 Dates: (45 days)
August 28 - October 11
2010 Price: $17,500 (includes all price increases for permits and other logistics)
Trip Leader:Willie Benegas
Climbing Grade: Advanced Intermediate
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Trip leader: Willie Benegas
 Take part in the Mountain Madness Cho Oyu Expedition. Cho Oyu is the 6th highest peak in the world (8201 meters) and is part of the Greater Himalaya, where the central Asia plateau meets the Indian subcontinent. Located on the Tibet and Nepal border, you will have a chance to experience the local Tibetan culture.
Our Cho Oyu expedition will fly to the ancient capital city of Tibet, Lhasa, once home to the 14th Dalai Lama who fled to India in 1959 due to the Chinese Invasion. While acclimatizing our group will tour many of the Tibetan Buddhist monasteries and palaces as we journey to Cho Oyu base camp. We will take an alternative overland route back to Kathmandu via Zhangmu.
First summitted in 1954 by a small Austrian/Tibetan expedition, Cho Oyu is technically easier than most other “8000ers,” making it a great first 8000-meter peak for climbers with previous high altitude climbing experience. We will climb Cho Oyu via the West Ridge/West Face, which has two short technical sections. Advanced Base Camp (ABC) will be established at 5800 meters (19,024 feet), Camp I at 6500 meters, Camp II at 7100 meters (23,288 feet), and Camp III at 7400 meters (24,272 feet).
 The Tibetan folktale of Cho Oyu (meaning Turquoise God) is that he fell in love with the Goddess Chomolungma (Everest), who later married her closer neighbor to the southeast, Makalu. Cho Oyu never married and he now faces the opposite way of Chomolungma.
The expedition will start in Kathmandu, Nepal. We will meet at our Nepal office to get our paperwork together, organize our gear, and enjoy the local customs & culture of Kathmandu before flying to Lhasa. We take a spectacular route from Lhasa to the village of Tingri, our final rugged and rural village before Cho Oyu base camp. We spend two nights at base camp before we hire yaks to transport our expedition supplies to ABC. On this two day journey we will cross rivers, and hike over rocky moraine before we arrive at ABC, “our base camp” for 4 weeks.
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Itinerary for Cho Oyu
 Day 1-3: Arrive in Kathmandu – Travel from your homeport to Kathmandu. All flights cross the date line and consequently a day is lost. Mountain Madness representatives will meet you at the airport and transport you to your hotel. Optional sightseeing of Kathmandu. Overnight at the hotel.
Day 4: Kathmandu – We finalize last minute paperwork with the Nepal and Tibet governments. You will have a casual day shopping for souvenirs in the streets of Kathmandu, with abundant photo opportunities along the way. Visit the palaces, Durbar Square, Hindu temples, shrines, and Buddhist stupas or just relax at the hotel.
Day 5: Lhasa – We fly to Lhasa and the fascinating world of Tibet. We transfer to our hotel downtown. Elevation at Lhasa is over 12,000 feet, so we use this opportunity to begin acclimatizing.
Day 6 – Day 7: Sightseeing in Lhasa – We have an opportunity to visit the popular and awe inspiring Potala Palace, Lhasa’s most renowned landmark. Since its construction in 1694, the Potala has been the home of each of the successive Dalai Lamas until 1959 and the final resting place of many of them. In the afternoon we will visit the Jokhang Temple, the most revered religious structure in Tibet. We may visit Norbulingka Palace, which was the summer home of the Dalai Lamas, and Drepung monastery, once the world’s largest.
 Day 8 : Drive to Shigatse and visit the Tashilhunpo Monastery – We travel by 4x4 Landcrusiers across the Tibetan plateau. We arrive in Shigatse, the second largest city of Tibet, in the afternoon. There, we tour Tashilhunpo Monastery. Built in 1447, this imposing complex is the residence of the Panchen Lama, the second most important religious figure in Tibet.
Day 9: Drive to New Tingri – Today will be a long travel day. Lunch stop will be in the town of Lhatse at 4000 meters. Our afternoon drive will take us over two passes above 5000 meters before arriving at the village of New Tingri.
Day 10 - 11: Cho Oyu Base Camp – We drive through the scenic countryside to base camp. The next morning we will take an acclimatization hike to 18,000 feet. After lunch we spend some time sorting gear before we head to Advance Base Camp (ABC) the next day.
 Day 12 - 13: Trek to Advance Base Camp – After breakfast we will depart on our two-day journey to Cho Oyu ABC. We will forge through the ice cold Ra Chhu River and set up intermediate camp. The following morning we trek to ABC and camp next to the Nangpa La. Camp will be at 5800 meters.
Day 14–Day 40: The Climb of Cho Oyu – Our strategy is to place two more camps at 6500 meters, and 7100 meters while we acclimatize for our summit attempt. This includes spending a night at 7100 meters before descending back to ABC. We rest at ABC for approximately 4 days depending on weather and the strength of the team. On our summit push we climb to Camp I, then Camp II and then establish Camp III at 7400 meters. On summit day we leave at 2 a.m. Depending on the strength of the team we should summit between 9-11 a.m. We will descend to our high camp or Camp II for the night. The next day we will descend to ABC.
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Day 41: Descend to Cho Oyu Base Camp – Our yaks will arrive in the morning. We trek down to base camp and arrive late in the day.
 Day 42 : Drive to Zhangmu – In the morning we will have a quick clean-up of the base camp area before the trucks pick us up there. We then make the adventurous drive to Zhangmu on the border of Tibet and Nepal.
Day 43: Drive to Kathmandu – After checking through with the Chinese border patrol and customs, we drive through the lush country of Nepal. The countryside is filled with warm and friendly people, beautiful waterfalls and terraced hillsides.
Day 44: Extra Day in Kathmandu – We have the day to linger around the city and visit the monasteries or hang out at a rooftop cafe.
Day 45: Fly home.
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 ** Note on Itinerary: Although we do our best to follow the schedule listed, this itinerary is subject to change for numerous reasons beyond our control. Just remember we are dealing with the Chinese government!
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General Information on Cho Oyu
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QUALIFICATIONS: All climbers are required to have past high-altitude mountaineering experience. In addition, members should be able to ascend and descend fixed lines independently and be proficient with cramponing on steep ice/snow slopes. For an increased chance of success, members should also be in good physical condition. Our “Live Your Dreams” training program can help you gain any additional training or experience needed. All climbers need to submit a climbing resume. A sample resume may include ascents in the Andes, in particular Aconcagua, Denali, Mustagh Ata, and/or the Island/Mera Peak Expedition. If you have other experience please contact us for consultation.
If you have any general questions about preparation and training for the climb, please call the Mountain Madness office.
MOUNTAIN SAFETY: Safety is the number one priority at Mountain Madness. Our Cho Oyu expedition is heavily supported by strongly experienced staff and has one of the highest staff to client ratios in the business. We provide a two-to-one client to Sherpa support ratio, as well as a one-to-three American guide to client ratio. Continual communication with base camp is maintained through reliable VHF radios. A 24-hour communication satellite is also provided for personal and emergency use. Mountain Madness also provides Gamow hyperbaric bags and additional oxygen in case of an emergency.
OUR PHILOSOPHY: Mountain Madness’ main objective is to help you summit Cho Oyu safely with the greatest amount of personal fulfillment and fun. In order for us to achieve our goal we are dedicated to ensuring that you are properly prepared for the summit attempt. Mountain Madness offers a wide variety of mountaineering courses and a diverse range of high-altitude peaks, as well as focused individual attention to help clients prepare for the expedition. We recommend a climb of Aconcagua, Mustagh Ata or another high altitude peak. Our seminar prepares you for your trip by reviewing mountain skills and climbing logistics, and helping you develop camaraderie with the team.
OUR STRATEGY: Because it’s critical to acclimatize properly to maintain health and fitness and avoid altitude problems, Mountain Madness begins the slow acclimatization process with a leisurely nine days to establish Advanced Base Camp. We spend two extra days in Lhasa, the capital of Tibet, for acclimatization. We will have a chance to explore monasteries and palaces before heading across the Tibetan plateau to the “Chinese base camp,” the trailhead at 16,000 feet. We spend two full days at the Chinese base camp. We will take an acclimatization hike to 18,000 feet, spend a morning reviewing fixed line skills, repacking our equipment for our trek into ABC, and R&R. Once at advanced base camp a pyramid of camps is established. The highest camp in the acclimatization process is Camp III at 7400 meters, and from there we will begin our summit attempt. Our experienced guides and Sherpas will fix ropes, stock camps and provide leadership and support for the climb. This enables you to carry lighter loads so you can save your strength for the summit bid. Oxygen will be used for all team members above Camp III. If you would like to try summiting Cho Oyu without oxygen, please discuss this with your guide prior to the trip. Team members leave for the summit the previous evening to allow adequate time to reach the summit by mid-morning. Mountain Madness provides additional oxygen, food, fuel and support for multiple summit attempts until Mother Nature deems the mountain unclimbable for the season. Mountain Madness equipment, service, and support are top-notch so you will have an outstanding chance at summitting.
ENVIRONMENTAL AND SOCIAL PRACTICES: Mountain Madness not only strives to offer the highest standard of service, but also to be the most socially and environmentally responsible adventure travel company in Nepal. Although there are many interpretations of "ecotourism," Mountain Madness believes that everyone benefits by choosing a company that is respectful of the environment and the local cultures. At Mountain Madness, we practiced ecotourism long before it became a buzzword and we have a broad understanding of the issues. We are always involved in training, conservation, and social development programs that ensure that the net impact of our company in Nepal is positive. To further our commitment, Mountain Madness has joined forces with the International Mountain Explorer’s Connection (IMEC) Porter Project, which has developed guidelines for the proper treatment of porters including making sure porters have adequate gear and equipment, proper shelter arrangements, proper food, cooking equipment and water, proper medical care for sick or injured porters, insurance where available, acceptable weight limits on loads, and fair wages. The IMEC Porter Project also educates the tourist population about acceptable standards of porter treatment, and encourages the reporting of abuse or mistreatment. Mountain Madness is the first pro-active company in support of the Porter Protection Project in the Khumbu region.
MOUNTAIN CUISINE: The menu for our climb is specially prepared to provide a balanced diet of fresh fruit, vegetables, plenty of protein and carbohydrates. We choose food items that are easiest to digest at high-altitude. Our cooks undergo extensive culinary training, with many having previously worked as chefs in local restaurants. The cooks are particularly vigilant in their hygiene practices since contracting stomach bugs is common for visitors to the developing world. Dinners typically include a main course of pastas and rice dishes served with vegetable, soup and salad. Lentils, beans or chicken are provided with dinner for a protein source. Lunches at base camp consist of a hot meal similar to our dinner menu. Breakfast is your choice: granola, oatmeal, toast, eggs, and sometimes pancakes or French toast. Coffee, tea, hot drinks and snacks are readily available throughout the day.
Since it is difficult to eat at the higher camps, we offer a wide variety of tasty food. We do NOT serve your typical freeze-dried packaged meal, but delicious pre-cooked meals or pastas and rice dinners. In addition, there are plenty of teas, hot drinks, soups, and salty and sweet snacks to munch on including European sausages and cheeses. We cater to different dietary requirements and full vegetarian menus can be provided on request.
WEATHER: The best times for climbing in Nepal/Tibet are April and May (pre-monsoon) or October and November (post-monsoon), when the skies are clear and the temperatures are mild.
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What's included in the price? |
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Price includes:
§ Scheduled hotel nights
§ Selected restaurant meals
§ International airfare from Kathmandu to Lhasa
§ All accommodations and meals while in Tibet
§ Park and museum entrance fees
§ Porters and pack animals
§ Food while on the trek and climb
§ Group tents and cooking gear
§ High Altitude Climbing Sherpas
§ Airport transfers to and from Kathmandu International
§ Satellite phone service
§ Oxygen (2 4-litre bottles)
§ Western Climbing Guides (3:1)
Price does not include:
§ International airfare
§ Staff/guide gratuities
§ Items of a personal nature (phone calls, laundry, room service, extra meals, etc.)
§ Trip cancellation insurance
§ Medical rescue insurance
§ Alcoholic beverages
§ Airport departure tax
§ Additional oxygen
§ Nepal and Chinese visa |
YOU ARE INVITED! Mountain Madness invites family members and friends to trek along with our Cho Oyu team into base camp. Be part of the Cho Oyu team and enjoy two days participating in the preparations at advanced base camp.
TRIP CANCELLATION AND RESCUE INSURANCE: We strongly recommend the purchase of trip cancellation and travel insurance. This comprehensive travel insurance provides coverage for trip cancellation and interruption, travel delays, loss of baggage and travel documents, baggage delay, medical expenses and emergency assistance.
HOW DO I SIGN-UP? Please call our office if you do not already have an application, or you can download it off our website. We require an application and a $2,500 deposit for international 8000 meber peak trips. Please mail your application or fax it to 206-937-1772 to reserve your spot.
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Equipment List for Cho Oyu
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A variety of clothing will be necessary for your trip. You will need clothing for dining in Kathmandu, trekking in the humidity and heat, and to protect you from the cooler temperatures in the mountains. This list is designed to help you choose the right gear for the demands of this trek and are the minimum required for this trip.
You are expected to provide the following personal equipment. These items are mandatory for survival in the mountains, so make sure you have everything on the list.
The emphasis on equipment necessary for mountain travel follows two simple tenets: Lightweight and Functional. The items you choose to take should be lightweight, dependable, and adaptable to a variety of extreme conditions. The quality of the equipment you choose has a lot to do with how warm, dry, and safe you will remain so be critical of quality and the proper fit of clothing. Comfort lends itself to a more enjoyable experience!
The layering system outlined is usually sufficient for most people, but if you tend to be colder, bring one extra medium layer such as a vest, which would be ideal for extra warmth around camp. When making the final decision as to what goes into your pack, remember that it's a fine science of taking just enough clothes and accessories to do the job, while not over-burdening yourself with items you probably will not use.
Cotton clothing must be avoided because it dries very slowly and is a poor insulator when wet. Instead, choose wool or synthetic fabrics that "wick" the sweat and moisture away from your skin to keep you much warmer.
Mountain Madness guides and staff swear by Patagonia gear and we know that you will too. Besides having a strong commitment to the environment, Patagonia produces some of the finest outdoor gear in the industry. Check “Our Links” on the Mountain Madness homepage for a direct link to Patagonia. Find out what makes them "committed to the core."
Another company that we believe follows our two simple tenets (lightweight and functional) is Outdoor Research. Founded in the NW, our guides have used OR gear again and again because they know it works in the mountains and trust their quality and durability. Check Our Links page for a direct link.
Mountain Madness works closely with Second Ascent, a new and used gear store. If you are looking at trying to save some money, this is definitely the place to call. They are great at answering equipment questions and also ship anywhere in the US. They can be reached at (206) 545-8810.
We also work closely with Feathered Friends , a retailer in Seattle. They will offer a 10% discount on purchases if you are signed up for a Mountain Madness trip. Please feel free to call them at (206) 292-2210
Climbing Gear
__ Alpine climbing harness. Must have adjustable leg loops and fit over all clothing
__ 2 locking carabiners. Large, pear-shaped carabiner is best, screw gate type recommended
__ 4-6 regular carabiners. Lightweight wire gate type are recommended
__ Ice axe w/leash. Lightweight (e.g. Grivel Air tech or Black Diamond Raven) under 5’7” use 60cm; 5’7”- 6’2” use 65cm; over 6’2” use 70cm
__ 1 mechanical ascender with handle and arm length leash
__ 1 pair expedition boots. Everest One Sport, Boreal G1 Expedition or La Sportiva Olympus Mons are recommended or 1 pair of plastic expedition boots Koflach Artis or equivalent with 1 pair of over boots. The recommended brand is -40 below
__ Crampons. Must be fit to plastic boots prior to trip, new-matic type recommended; include a simple repair kit (e.g. Grivel G12, Black Diamond Contact, or Charlet Moser Super 12. Make sure they fit properly with your super-gaiters prior to arrival in Nepal
__ Adjustable trekking poles
__ Figure 8 belay device
__ 2 sewn runners (shoulder length -24”)
Upper Body
__ 2 cotton t-shirts
__ 1 polypropylene t-shirt
__ 2 long sleeve polypropylene shirts. Lightweight, light colored for sunny days
__ 2 women sports bras. Synthetic, no cotton!
__ 2 soft shells. Marmot Dri-clime Wind Shirt, Patagonia Stretch Zephur or Krushell
Jacket (R2 pullover acceptable)
__ Down/synthetic sweater or vest. Patagonia Puffball Jacket or Sweater preferred, R4 Jacket acceptable
__ Hardshell jacket with hood, waterproof and breathable. Gore-Tex or equivalent is best, roomy enough to fit over multiple layers
__ 1 down parka with hood. It is important that your jacket is 700+ fill down, baffle construction (not sewn through seams) and has a thick insulated hood
__ 1 8000 meter down suit or 1 Expedition down parka with hood & 1 pair of down pants that fit comfortably over under layers
Hand wear: We require two systems: one glove system for lower on the mountain and a mitten overmitt system for the cold temperatures encountered on summit day.
__ 2 pair liner gloves. Thin wool or polypropylene
__ 1 pair warm gloves fleece or wool
__ 1 pair of leather work gloves for the fixed lines; should fit over liner gloves
__ 1 pair expedition shell gloves
__ 1 pair modular expedition shell mitts. OR Pro Mitts. If they do not have wrist straps consider sewing one on so that you can either attach it to your jacket or cinch the strap to your wrist so that you do not lose your mittens in high winds
Head gear
__ Warm hat. Wool or synthetic that covers. your ears.
__ Balaclava
__ Face mask
__ Shade hat or baseball cap
__ Glacier glasses 100% UV protection with side shields and a hard-sided storage case (e.g. Julbo or Cebe)*
__ 1 pair extra sunglasses (also with UV protection in case your 1st pair breaks)
__ 1 ski goggles with UV protection*
*If you require prescription glacier glasses, you can get your lenses modified to your prescription. Julbo Sherpas glacier glasses work great for prescription lenses. Send the glasses to Opticus along with your PD number with your order. Their number is 1-800-870-5557..
Lower Body
__ 4 pair of liner socks. Polypropylene or Capilene
__ 2-3 pair lightweight trekking socks
__ 4 pair medium-heavy wool socks. Check boot fit with liner and wool socks on
__ 1 pair nylon shorts
__ 1 pair nylon pants for trekking and around camp
__ 2 pair long underwear bottoms (1 lightweight/1 mid or expedition weight)
__ 1 pair soft shell pants (e.g. Patagonia Guide pants or OR Granite Pants. Schoeller fabrics)
__ 1 pair of hardshell pants. Waterproof/breathable with full side zips; Gore-Tex or equivalent is best.
__ 1 pair down booties (optional)
__ 1 pair trail shoes for the hike to basecamp and use at camp
__ 1 pair sandals or tennis shoes for Kathmandu and in camp
All clothing should be kept dry using waterproof stuff sacks or large plastic bags.
Sleeping gear
__ 1 down sleeping bag (rated to –30 F or below)
__ 1 full length Thermarest pad (bring repair kit)
__ 1 medium or full length closed cell foam pad
Pack
__ 1 large capacity internal frame (5,000+ cubic inches)
__ 1 daypack for the approach hike, possible use on summit day and carry-on pack. If you plan to use it for your summit pack it must be large enough for your down jacket, miscellaneous. clothes, food and water. The Lowe Alpine Neutrino or Black Diamond Speed 28 are excellent, lightweight (16 oz.) choices
__ 2 large (7,500+cu.in.) duffel bags for gear. Must be durable for use on pack animals
__ 1 small duffel bag to store street at the Mountain Madness office in Kathmandu
__ Small padlocks for duffel bags
Miscellaneous
__ 1 first-aid kit with ibuprofen and any other doctor recommended medications
__ Lip balm. At least SPF 20, 2 sticks. A string taped to the stick is helpful to hang around your neck
__ Sunscreen. At least SPF 40
__ Headlamp. Petzl Myobelt 3 or Black Diamond Polar Star
__ 3 Water bottles. 1 liter wide-mouth Nalgene (1 is a pee bottle)
__ Hydration bladder with drinking tube for lower mountain (optional)
__ 2 water bottle insulators
__ Plastic mug with snap-on lid, 16 oz. or larger
__ Bowl and spoon. Plastic, small Tupperware works well. Lexan spoons are best
__ Pocket knife. Small Swiss-army type
__ Water purification. Iodine tablets or Polar-pure crystals
__ Toiletry kit. Be sure to include toilet paper stored in a plastic bag
__ 3-4 Large plastic bags, for keeping miscellaneous gear dry
__ Nylon stuff sacks. For food and gear storage (OR has a good selection); large Ziplocs are useful also
__ Bandana
__ Camp towel
__ Ear plugs
__ Hand wipes
__ 1 small stainless steel thermos (optional)
__ Favorite snack foods (no more than 2 pounds)
__ Paperback books, cards, Walkman, etc.
__ Binoculars (optional for viewing the route from the lower camps)
__ Camera. 1 light weight point & shoot on the mountain, 1 large SLR types for the trek in and base camp (optional)
__ Fanny pack or wallet for travel documents, money & passport
__ Passport and passport photos
__Airline ticket
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