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Trips dates:
Arranged on a custom basis
During the months of December-early March climbers ascend the Shipton Route
to the summit of Nelion, while during the months early June- September the
route of choice will be the North Face Standard directly to Batian.
Land cost for custom trips: call for details
Climbing Grade: Intermediate
Climbers should be experienced rock climbers with ability to climb up to 5.7-5.8.
High altitude experience not required but recommended. Mountain Madness Alpine
Rock Seminar, Red Rocks or custom climbs in the North Cascades are perfect ways to prepare for the climb.
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Trip Highlights:
• 15-20 pitches of solid rock up to 5.7
• Ecological diversity
• Wildlife sightings and amazing birdlife
• Porter supported trekking
• Reaching the second highest point in Africa
Extensions: Participants can join our Kilimanjaro climb and safari before or after the climb of Mount Kenya for a complete Africa experience! For shorter safari options in Kenya one day trips are available at the Sweetwater Reserve.
Trip Novelties:
• Hyrax- a small, furry marmot-like creature closest living relative of the elephant- go figure!
• Cape Buffalo dung- by itself harmless, but if the perpetrator is nearby consider that this beast is the second most dangerous animal in Africa behind the unassuming, perceived docility of the hippopotamus.
Set against such a backdrop it’s hard to imagine a more intriguing high altitude rock climb as Mount Kenya. While most volcanic mountains play host to dangerously loose rock, the stone you’ll encounter here is solid, with a multitude of incut holds to keep the enjoyment levels high and the difficulty moderate. Climbers have a choice of routes and season. During early December- March the Shipton route is at its best, which leads to the Nelion summit of this twin peaked mountain. From June-September the North Face Standard route is the optimal way to reach the summit of Batian, the mountain’s other summit. Both offer outstanding climbing.
 Mount Kenya is as the phrase goes, “a mountaineer’s mountain.” There are no easy ways up this extinct volcano. It has the same allure as such legendary peaks as the Matterhorn, standing isolated as it does above the surrounding alpine landscape. It sits in the center of what is referred to as Central Highlands in an ecologically diverse environment that rivals Mount Kilimanjaro and in fact contains more wildlife. Bizzare plants, such as the giant groundsel, senesias, and lobelia, are unique to the area and the Mount Kenya National Park is home to such wild and wooly creatures such as the Cape buffalo, elephants, a variety of monkeys, species rich birdlife, and more. |
General Information on Mt. Kenya
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Included in cost:
• Scheduled hotel nights
• Food while on the mountain
• Park Fees
• Group climbing and cooking gear
• Scheduled restaurant meals
• Porters
• Ground transportation to the mountains and return to Nairobi
Not included in cost:
• Airfare
• Personal equipment
• Staff/guide gratuities
• Alcoholic beverages
• Trip Insurance
• Items of a personal nature; phone calls, laundry, room service and so forth
• Unscheduled hotels and restaurant meals in Nairobi
• Transfer to airport for return flight home
TRAINING PROGRAM: In addition to getting out and rock climbing as much as possible before your trip you should train for endurance. This trip is physically demanding and we cannot over emphasize the importance of physical conditioning. We suggest you begin your training program at least two months prior to departure. While strength is important, endurance training should be your primary focus. In addition to rock climbing, walking up hills and stair climbing are both excellent ways to condition your lower body. Begin slowly, without the weight of a pack, eventually adding weight as you increase your training pace. Take a long hike (4-6 hours) several times with a weighted pack (40-60 lbs.) up and down hills or on small mountains (weight your pack with water containers and pour out the water before your descent to minimize knee stress). Supplement this activity with running, cycling, swimming, racquet sports, basketball, etc. for additional aerobic conditioning. If possible try to take at least two longer hikes of 6-10 hours with at least 3,000 feet of elevation gain. Several days before your departure you should rest and drink plenty of water.
WEATHER: Like all big mountains, Mount Kenya generates its own weather, making conditions impossible to predict. December through mid-March typically has the best weather for the Shipton route, but be prepared for a wide range of temperatures, from freezing nights and snowy, windy conditions, to bright sunshine intensified by high altitude. The wide fluctuation in temperatures makes it important to bring everything on the equipment list.
READING RECOMMENDATION: No Picnic on Mount Kenya by Felice Benuzzi. Chronilce the ascent of Point Lenana by three escaped Italian POWs during WWII.
FOOD: Mountain Madness is renowned for providing some of the finest mountain cuisine available. All of the meals from the trailhead and back will be provided, including pastas, rice, soups, dehydrated and fresh foods. Bring along your favorite snack foods, energy bars and after dinner treats. Trip members will help prepare meals and clean up in order to become comfortable with expedition cooking.
TRIP CANCELLATION INSURANCE: We strongly recommend the purchase of trip cancellation and travel insurance. This comprehensive travel insurance provides coverage for trip cancellation and interruption, travel delays, loss of baggage and travel documents, baggage delays, medical expenses, and emergency assistance. A Travelguard insurance application is provided with all trip bookings.
MEDICAL AND EVACUATION INSURANCE: If your insurance policy does not cover international travel and mountaineering expeditions you will receive policy information from Liaison International with your booking that we strongly recommend you consider. We also belong to flying Doctors evacuation service. Call our office for details.
HOW DO I SIGN UP?: Please call our office 1-800-328-5925 if you do not already have an application, or you can download it off our website. We require an application and a $500 deposit for international trips. Please mail your application in or fax it to 206-937-1772 to reserve your spot.
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Itinerary for Mt. Kenya
 DECEMBER-MARCH CLIMBS/ SHIPTON ROUTE ON NELION:
Day 1: LEAVE HOME
Day 2: NAIROBI - HOTEL
A Mountain Madness representative will meet you on the evening of day two.
Day 3: MOUNTAIN LODGE
We will drive for about five hours to the Mountain Lodge at 10,000 feet, on the Chogoria Route. This lodge is just above the forest and affords great views toward the many peaks surrounding Mt. Kenya.
Day 4: THE GATES
Today we hike for 4-6 hours to the Gates. This camp is at 13,000 feet. We will camp at Lake Ellis with an awe-inspiring view of Mt. Kenya in the distance.
Day 5: MINTOS HUT/ HALLS TARN
We move camp, which will involve a 5-hour hike to Halls Tarn. The rest of the day can be spent resting at the tarn, exploring the area, or climbing to the top of one of the many high ridges in the area. All the high points around Hanging Tarn offer fantastic views of the entire area.
Day 6: AUSTRIAN HUT
Today we begin our trek ascending up along the foot of huge rock walls. From the top we will have an excellent view of Mt. Kenya. After ascending for a couple of hours we reach Tooth Col. From here we traverse until we reach the Austrian Hut.
 Day 7: POINT LENANA OR POINT JOHN ASCENT
Depending on conditions and the interests of the group there will be an opportunity to climb the non-technical Point Lenana (16,356 ft.) or the five pitch (up to 5.5) southeast gully of 16,020 foot Point John. In the evening we prepare for the ascent of Mount Kenya.
Day 8-9: SUMMIT DAY OF MT. KENYA- SHIPTON ROUTE TO NELION
An early morning departure. We easily cross the Lewis Glacier and climb the Shipton’s Route on Mt. Kenya. Shipton’s route is a technical rock climb with the majority of the climbing 5.4 - 5.6 grade and a few short sections of 5.7-5.8. After taking our summit photos we complete multiple rappels down to camp for the night. We have built in an extra day for the summit attempt. We may consider climbing Batian, which would require a bivi near the summit of Nelion and the need to carry ice axe, crampons, and a sleeping bag.
Day 10: Hike out and return to lodge.
Day 11-12: NAIROBI/ FLIGHT HOME
We drive to Nairobi in the early afternoon for the evening flight home. Participants arrive home on day 12
Optional extension: A half hour drive from the Naro Moru River Lodge is the Sweetwater Reserve which is home to the Big 5 wildlife species (elephant, buffalo, lion, leopard, and rhino) and a great variety of other wildlife species. There is also a chimpanzee orphanage. A driving safari can be arranged.
 
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JUNE- SEPTEMBER CLIMBS/ NORTH FACE STANDARD ON BATIAN:
Day 1-2: Depart home and arrive in Nairobi late on day 2. Overnight in Nairobi.
Day 3: Drive from Nairobi to the Mount Kenya National Park where we begin our trek on the Sirimon route. Our hike from the gate (2700m) to Old Moses camp (3200m) starts in lush forests and ends in moorland. About 9 kilometers of walking in 3-4 hours.
Day 4: Continue hiking to Shipton’s camp at 4200 meters. Today’s trek up Mackinder’s Valley introduces you the diverse plant life found in the upper reaches of the park, in what people often refer to as a Dr. Seuss-like landscape. About 12 kilometers of walking today in 5-7 hours.
Day 5: Rest day and acclimatization. Hike around the Shipton’s camp area - possible walk to Lower Simba Tarn or to the pass near the impressive peaks of Sendeyo and Terere where the remains of “Icy Mike,” a deceased elephant that has been theorized to have been driven up the mountain by fire in the lowlands can be found. It is Kenya’s equivalent to the leopard on top of Kilimanjaro.
Day 6: CLIMB POINT JOHN
Climb the five pitch (up to 5.5) southeast gully of 16,020 foot Point John. In the evening we return to the Austrian Hut. Alternatively, we may climb several pithes on the North Face Standard and cache equipment for the climb.
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Day 7-8: SUMMIT DAY OF MT. KENYA- NORTH FACE STANDARD ROUTE TO BATIAN
Depending on the group, we will either make the ascent in one long day or take two days and sleep on the climb, which will allow slower parties to complete the ascent with ample time.
Day 9: Begin hike out the Chogoria Route. Optional summit day if needed.
Day 10: NARO MORU RIVER LODGE
We will complete the trek to the trailhead and transfer to the lodge -- a fantastic place to end a trekking trip. Here we relax in the well-maintained gardens and enjoy the area’s rich birdlife. |
Day 11-12: NAIROBI/ FLIGHT HOME
We drive to Nairobi in the early afternoon for the evening flight home. Participants arrive home on day 12.
 Optional extension: A half hour drive from the Naro Moru River Lodge is the Sweetwater Reserve which is home to the Big 5 wildlife species (elephant, buffalo, lion, leopard, and rhino) and a great variety of other wildlife species. There is also a chimpanzee orphanage. A driving safari can be arranged.
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Climb Equipment List for Mt. Kenya
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Proper equipment is extremely important to the success, enjoyment, comfort and safety of your trip. Please bring the following items for your climb. If you have any questions, call us for advice.
Sleeping Gear
These items are available for rent for $30 each. You must order and pay Mountain Madness, Inc. for them before your departure.
___sleeping bag and stuff sack: night-time temperatures on Kilimanjaro can be as low as zero degrees Fahrenheit so bring a warm bag
___sleeping pad: full-length Therma-Rest or equivalent
Head and Face
___pile or wool hat: it must cover the ears; a balaclava works well
___shade hat: a visor hat with a good brim is essential for protection from the equatorial sun
___bandannas: various uses - cleaning glasses, sun protection when tied around the neck, etc.
___sunglasses with side shields or glacier glasses: essential eye protection whether in the tropics, at high altitudes or by the water
Upper Body
___t-shirts: two t-shirts that will get dirty; polypropylene is best; no cotton.
___upper body layers: three warms layers for the upper body. These must be made of wool, polypropylene or pile. Layers must fit over each other and provide good insulation. A long underwear top, a sweater and a pile or heavy wool shirt make a good combination. Cotton should be avoided.
___rain parka: a good parka made of Gortex or waterproof nylon that has been seam sealed. Afternoon showers are common in East Africa, especially on Kilimanjaro.
___poncho: quick and handy protection for your body and your day pack; poor protection in windy rain
___wool gloves or mittens: wool or pile; one pair of heavy mittens and a light pair of gloves works well
___mitten shells: one pair to go over mittens; provide protection from the wind and rain at higher altitudes on the mountain
Optional
___Down or Synthetic Jacket: although not required some individuals may prefer to bring a heavier expedition weight jacket for cold mountain nights.
Lower Body
___undergarments: adequate supply for the entire climb
___hiking shorts: one pair of quick-drying shorts; good for hiking at lower elevations on the mountain
___tights: comfortable to hike in, protection from vegetation and sunburn, warm on cool misty days; Lycra are best
___long underwear bottoms: one pair, either wool or polypropylene ___pile, bunting or wool pants: one comfortable pair that fit loosely over the long underwear bottoms
___rain pants: a good pair of Gortex or nylon pants (nylon pants must be made of breathable, water resistant nylon); must be roomy enough to fit comfortably over pile or wool pants
Feet
___thin socks: two pair of polypropylene socks to wear under heavy wool socks; help prevent blisters and keep feet dry
___thick socks: six pair of heavy wool or polypropylene socks
___hiking boots: one pair medium weight hiking boots large enough to be comfortable with one thin and one heavy sock (see Boot Fitting and Maintenance section in this booklet)
___gaiters: one pair of high gaiters made of breathable material; keeps dirt and snow out of boots
___tennis shoes: to wear in camp after a day of hiking
Personal Health and Comfort
___toiletries: toothbrush and paste, comb, shampoo, tampons, footpowder, handcream, etc. Bring enough for the entire trip as few are available in Tanzania.
___sunscreen: bring plenty of sun block with SPF of 15 or more. It's easy to underestimate the amount necessary for equatorial sun protection.
___lip balm: must have SPF rating of 15 or more
___ear plugs: to block out snoring and other noise to ensure a good night's sleep
___flashlight and/or headlamp: bring extra batteries
___adjustable ski poles: required to assist with a rigorous descent from the mountain
___pocket knife: simple Swiss Army type with scissors
___personal first aid and drug kit: see Health and Medical Information ___towel: for wash up in camp
___Towelettes: individually wrapped anti-bacterial towels are great for general hygiene
___spare contacts or glasses: contacts can be a problem in dusty conditions; glasses wearers should have a spare set
___umbrella (optional): protection from rain and sun; most guides use one
___portable chair: (optional): Therma-rest and Crazy Creek both make light-weight, comfortable portable chairs. Stools are provided in camp for dining.
___snacks: (optional): bring a supply of your favorite snacks to eat on the climb. It is a nice treat for the porters to receive a small snack on the climb.
___fingernail brush (optional): for removing dust from your nails, clothes or boots
___plastic sandwich bags: keeps personal items separate and dry
Water
___water bottles: two one-quart, wide-mouthed plastic bottles. If you use a collapsible water bottle or hydration system you are welcome to bring it along for drinking water. However, continue to bring at least one hard plastic bottle in addition. These can be used in cold weather as hot water bottles in your sleeping bag (example: Nalgene ).
___water treatment tablets: two bottles of Potable Agua or Polar Pure crystal iodine; purifies drinking water while on the climb and is lightweight and easy to use
___water flavoring: powdered additives like Tang, Gatoraid and Wyler's lemonade make treated water taste better.
Carrying Gear
___large day pack: with padded shoulder straps and waist belt; used for carrying personal gear such as water bottle, extra clothing, snacks, camera, etc. Individual loads will be between 15 and 20 pounds. A climbing pack with a volume between 2500-3500 cu. in. (40-50 liters) severs most people needs well.
___large duffel bag: with a lock; mountain gear will be kept in it and the entire duffel will go into the group mountain bag that will be carried by the porters. Limit loads to items on the equipment list. Your large duffel will weigh between 25-30 lbs.
___medium duffel bag: to store your non-mountain gear; this will be stored at the hotel, to be used after the climb and will be brought to your hotel.
___baggage tags: makes identifying your bags easy at the airports or hotels
___plastic bags: sleeping bag and clothes will be double-bagged while on the mountain for protection from afternoon rains. Heavy duty garbage bags work great and can store dirty or wet clothes as well.
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