Pablo Puruncajas photo
Pablo Puruncajas photo
Pablo Puruncajas photo
Rock scrambling on Carstensz Pyramid. Mark Ryman photo
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Exotic Alpine Rock Ascent

Carstensz Pyramid

Trip:
Carstensz
Location:
Oceania

Elevation: 16,023 feet / 4885 meters

With a combination of excellent climbing and the unique, exotic culture of the Dani people, Carstensz Pyramid Climb is truly one of our most fascinating adventures in one of the wildest remaining places on the planet. Located at latitude 4 degrees and 5 minutes south by 137 degrees and 11 minutes east longitude in the western central highlands of New Guinea, the second largest island after Greenland, 16,023 foot Carstensz Pyramid is the highest peak on the Oceania continent and one of the seven summits.

Our strategy:
 

If helicopters are available they will be utilized to approach the mountain. But, given the difficulties of obtaining helicopters the first plan of action for the trip will be to trek into the mountain, which will provide a reliable means to acces the mountain. As the route becomes more traveled, we've found it to be a viable way into the mountain and for some will bring the spirit of adventure back into the expedition.
 

The climb:
 

From the magical base camp that is surrounded by alpine lakes we have easy access to the peak. Our climb of Carstensz Pyramid consists of moderate rock climbing over mostly solid, white limestone and is completed in one long day from our basecamp in the Valley of Lakes. The climb is never extremely difficult but has several technical sections that require both the familiarity of mechanical ascenders and being comfortable on steep, exposed terrain. On our way to the summit we will encounter several rappels and ascend short sections of near vertical rock. The climbing along the summit ridge is a distinct pleasure with high exposure and interesting climbing on easy to moderate fifth class rock.

 

 

From the summit we will have incredible views of Ngga Pulu and its rapidly retreating glaciers, the brilliant white limestone towers of the Sudirman Mountains, the turquoise lakes of the Meren Valley and on a clear day all the way to the coast of New Guinea.